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Dog Mind
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Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:25:26 PST From: "man pup" <man_pup@hotmail.com> To: topdog1@BEST.COM

Top Dog,

Thanks for the email. Wish i was in Your backyard to train SIR. (licking Your hand). i have always wanted to meet with You. Your website literally changed my life. Thanks.

Did You get the picture? If not i can send it again.

Here is an essay that i pulled off a site. i hope You enjoy it. Who knows SIR, maybe W/we will get the chance to meet and train.

Respectfully,

pup

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The Beast

Dog Mind

There are those of us in this wide world who, for one reason or another, identify with animals. For some it's ponies, others pigs, and of course there's always dogs. In my case, well, I'm a dog.

For each of us, somewhere down in there there's an animal. It's the thing you were before you learned who you are the parts of you that had communication before language, interaction before expectations, and contact before you learned how to manipulate your reality.

The animal within is the thing that existed prior to your preconceptions about people, the world, or your self. It is this animal, to some extent the 'id' in the Jungian or transpersonal sense, that some of us identify with real world animals. This binding of the inner beast with the nature and symbolism of another animal can produce a truly powerful means of expression and an entirely different way of experiencing. The inherent simplicity, the "is-ness" of any scenario, from domestic life to intense SM play, is something that defies verbal description. Communication and interaction tend to be more direct and up front. Words like "pain" and "pleasure" begin to lose their internalized meanings as one loses his ability to use human language, thus direct experience without interpretation tends to become the order of the day.

For some, simply "being treated like an animal" is the point. The slave who eats from a bowl on the floor, sleeps at the foot of the bed, is leashed & collared and forced to experience the inherent humiliation of being treated like an animal for his MASTER'S pleasure -- this is a reasonable example, depending on the context. This is not, however, what I'd like to cover here. Some, myself included, are more interested in fully identifying with the animal - being the animal, a human dog in this case.

A human dog could be defined as a person who has adopted the characteristics, identity, behavior, and so on of a real to dog to whatever extent possible within the constraints of what their mind and body will allow. The ultimate scenario would be that of a person in "dog mind" all of the time, something which probably occurs infrequently. This interpretation of dog training could to some extent be described as a given path or practice within the context of BD/SM as opposed to a scene.

Keeping him in his place

In order for a boy to really achieve the depth and scope of a good dog mind, he needs to know his place. If you truly want your boy to be the animal that he is, then you need to give him a proper frame of reference. I'll go into more detail in the later sections, but here are some of the more basic points for prospective MASTERS/owners/trainers to ponder:

The dog must remain on all fours. After all, a dog's dominion is the floor, right?

Keeping him on all fours in crucial to the psychology of the thing. Putting him there should be no problem, he may even be eager to do it. As time goes by, keeping him there can become another story. At some point the animal is probably going to get tired of walking about on all fours, or bored, or he may be just plain rebellious. It's during these moments that you have to react immediately then floor him and punish him to reinforce his position. Restraints can also be of good use here.

The dog may not use human speech. When was the last time you heard a dog say something in any human language? This is perhaps the most powerful tool that can be used in building up the dog psychology in your boy's head. Dogs communicate in barks, woofs, yips, and whimpers. Along with body language, these vocalizations should give your boy a more than adequate range of expression to get his point across. With time and practice he will learn to tune the depth, pitch, and other factors surrounding his vocalizations so that he can make them even more highly communicative. Help him refine his technique by punishing anything even vaguely human that passes his lips. Also, the less a boy thinks in any given language, the more readily and easily the animal mentality can grow.

For those who want to add some true depth to the experience of being a dog, teach your boy to avoid thinking in pronouns. Pronouns are the great separators of language; they create an artificial barrier between a person and their world. Without using "he" "me" "I" and the rest in the internal dialogue, a person slowly but surely begins to drop their internal barriers and starts to fully appreciate contact and experience. Doing this little Zen bit will eventually lead to a state of raw and total awareness and non-conceptual thinking -- the state your favourite animals are in their entire lives.

Dogs don't use furniture. Except in the case of a doggie bed, I've never met a canine who had furniture, or a pet owner who willingly let their dog onto the furniture. A dog should live on the floor day and night unless for some reason he has special permission from his MASTER. Attempts to crawl up on the couch should be rewarded with a sharp swat on the rump and a loud "NO", or other suitable punishment. If you choose to let the animal sleep on your bed, put him at the foot where he belongs and make him show thanks by gently cleaning your feet with his tongue as you drift off to sleep.

Dogs don't understand the toilet. This one is not a hard and fast rule, as not all pets or their owners can handle it. Still, when was the last time you saw a dog use the facilities? At the minimum your pet should be forced to raise one leg over the tub or bowl to pee. In addition, you may wish to teach him to squat over the bowl so that he may carry out his other duties. In a more in depth scenario, you may choose to paper train your dog instead, taking into account that you may not always be available to walk him. If you have the space for a secluded outdoor kennel, then all he needs is to pick a corner. If your geography and level of privacy allow, you should probably attempt to walk him often enough to avoid al of this, if it suits you.

Biology -- veterinary tips for the human dog.

Posture & Movement

There are certain inherent differences in the physiological functioning of humans when compared to dogs. The first that comes to mind is also the most basic, being posture. Dogs are designed to walk on all fours, humans aren't. The good news here is that they can get good at it, even to the point of developing poise and a certain degree of grace on the floor. The bad news is that this kind of poise also tends to fade rapidly when not practiced. Some pointers to keep in mind are that, although "hands & knees" seems more appropriate, and initially more comfortable, it isn't.

For restive moments and light play being on hands and knees is fine, but for good walks, running, romping, frolicking, and a host of other doggie style behaviors it puts an undue strain on the musculature and connective tissues as well as the spine. Dogs walk digitgrade, that is, on their toes. From the practical standpoint this is the best way for a human dog to move about, particularly when performing fuller movements. Being on the hands and toes can be very strenuous until the dog gets used to it, but as the muscles in the legs adapt it becomes much more relaxed and fluid than it is in the very beginning. It also becomes much easier over time to directly replicate a host of other canine behaviors from this position as opposed to approximating them from a hands and knees stance. A good example here is that pelvic motion is much less limited with the knees off the floor, adding to a fuller and more realistic wag of the tail and humping motion from the pup.

Sleeping

Another point to remember is that the shoulders and hips of a dog are hinged entirely differently than humans. You'll notice that a biological dog's head rests easily on the floor when lying on its side. For human dogs lying on the side places the head on the top edge of the shoulder, bending the spine -- not good for sleeping. This can cause big problems over time, but there is a simple remedy. Although biological dogs don't use pillows, human dogs to some extent need them. To a certain degree it is an aesthetic concession in a scene, but if you value your dogs health and ability to perform you'll give him one at bedtime. For those of you who really hate the idea there are alternatives -- for example, a soft canvas sack stuffed with old socks and various other funky items makes a nice dog pillow.

In addition to a pillow, a human dog does need a bed -- at least some of the time. Unfortunately, the structure of the human anatomy is not conducive to sleeping on the side or all curled up on a hard surface. Over time a human dog can begin to experience cramping, extremely tight muscles atrophy of certain connective structures, and some of the milder forms of arthritis -- not good if you want a healthy pet. Any kind of large puppy pad, an old blanket folded in the corner, or even an extra large dog bed (available at most chain pet stores) will do nicely. You also might like to let him up on the bed every now and again when he's been exceptionally good.

Flexibility

Last, but perhaps most important, is flexibility. Dogs are designed to carry out a certain range of motions, some of which humans cannot directly match. How many men have you met that could lick their own nuts? If you want a dog who has a more than ample range of flexibility for most tasks, the teach him to stretch when he rises. It's easy, and dogs do it almost every time the stand up. Starting from a hands and knees position, with the toes on the floor, the dog should slowly raise his rump in the air while straightening his arms, back, and legs. Done correctly, the dog winds up looking like an inverted "V" for a moment. This will gently stretch the back, pelvic muscles, and hamstrings -- three critical areas in the scheme of a human dog's health. Need I mention the fact that this is a very basic dog behaviour anyway?

Now for those of you with even higher aspirations here's the scoop on licking those nuts, as well as using the rear legs to scratch behind the ears. Yes, it can be done. No, it is NOT easy to become flexible enough to do this, let alone maintaining it, but it is possible. My immediate suggestion to any dog seeking to add this to his stable of abilities or any MASTER looking to get the best from his pet is to forget it unless you've got the time, patience, and commitment to pull it off. The process is slow, tedious, moderately risky, and requires daily maintenance. It involves full body flexibility, focused on the back, pelvis, and legs. If after reading this far you feel you're up for the challenge, the first thing you need to do is read The Stretching FAQ. If you choose to follow through, then focus your attention first on the legs, particularly the hamstrings. As you progress, involve the pelvic region and hips more and more in your routine. Finally add the back (particularly lower), taking care to stretch the opposing muscles across the front of the body in order to avoid damaging posture.

Basic Training

Canine Behaviour, Body Language, and Expression

The first goal of the would-be dog slave is to learn to emulate the behaviors of his canine cousin, and the absolute best way to learn what a dog does and why is through direct observation. The simple behaviors range from walking on all fours to wagging the tail, but for purposes of realism and identity the more complex behaviors are very desirable. Dogs use a fairly limited range of actions in the sense that many of them can be classified under one of several categories. In combination with body language and tone of voice the K9's range of communication becomes very well rounded and more than effective enough for communicating with humans under normal circumstances. The list below describes some basic behaviors the prospective dog/dogslave needs to MASTER:

Barking -- Dogs bark for many reasons, as a greeting, a warning, a threat, for attention, or even as a show of preference. The tone, volume, and body language during barking all come together to create a message for the humans or other dogs around. The critical thing in learning the body language aspect of barking is attention -- what is the animal focused on? Attention, posture, and tone generally combine to give humans a clue as to the meaning of a bark.

Yapping -- Yapping sounds when when the pup is in need of attention or when trying to draw attention to something in its environment, although sometimes they do it out of sheer excitement. Yapping can also be a sign that the animal wants to play when combined with the right posturing.
Whining/Whimpering -- Dogs will often whimper or whine when sad or distressed; for instance when hungry or being abused by their owners. Many dogs will whine at the door when in need of a walk.
Growling -- Growling is generally a sign of aggression, extreme dislike or distress, or forcefulness. Dogs may growl to express a negative preference, warn an owner of a negative thing in the environment, or to warn another animal that it is considered a threat.
Pawing -- A canine pawing at things usually wants something. Pawing the door means he probably wants to go out. When pawing the toys, he may want to play. When pawing his owner's leg with an accompanying soft whimper, he's probably feeling amorous.
Sniffing -- A dog's nose tells it a lot about the world and smell is one of its most important senses. An interested or curious pup will sniff at anything new, and frequently at whatever happens to be on his mind at the moment -- toys, spots to go to the bathroom, etc. When meeting new people, a dog will usually build a catalog of their scents by sniffing at their feet, crotch, ass, armpits, and so on.
Licking -- Pups usually lick for out of affection or just because something tastes good. A lick at his MASTER'S boots generally shows submission, while licking at his hand or face can portray gratefulness, excitement, affection, or a host of other things depending on the animal's posture and expression. Some licking behaviors involve sexual instincts -- licking up spilled cum or cleaning one of his owner's toys, for example.
Wagging -- A dog will wag its tail for many reasons, but the most common and universal is to show a range of happy emotions. A slow gentle wag can portray a content and relaxed pup, while a fast silly wag usually means excitement.

Submissive & Dominant Behaviors

Dogs, like all pack or family oriented animals, have a range of behaviors for establishing a hierarchy of dominance and submission with those they encounter. A submissive dog will generally look down and carry out its sniffing and licking in a gentle, cautious fashion. Rolling onto its back and showing its neck and belly are an abject show of submission for nearly all canines, and submissive whimpering is also common in these scenarios. A more dominant dog will act more confident and perhaps even aggressive when "sizing up" another creature, be it human or animal. It will level its gaze, perhaps growling as a show of power. More dominant animals are harder to get on their backs, but when they are they tend to enjoy it if the company is right and the scratching is good. Dominant dogs will stand forward with their tail up and ears back, eyes level and gaze unwavering. Submissive dogs will stand or sit with their tail low, eyes averted, and ears down. Cowering, which is common when a dog knows it has done something wrong, is a classic example of submissive behavior.

Protocol

In training a dog to behave properly, certain points of protocol must be kept in mind. In a public environment (bar, club, country lane) the animal should be taught to heel at its MASTER'S left side when walking, and either next to his left leg or between his legs when resting. A normal dog will range around collecting the scents of man and beast alike with his nose when he's brought into a new environment. This is normal and expected, but the animal must always be available to its owner by and responsive when called to "come" or "heel". It is also likely that a dog will play and interact with any other animals that may be about -- this is it's normal instinct, interrupted only by its MASTER'S command.

Theory & Basic Equipment

The primary goal of all animal training is behavior modification. The techniques used to accomplish this end are many and varied, and a more detailed discussion of them will appear in the next section. The underlying goal of behavior modification is simple: to modify the animal's innate and automatic behaviors in such a way as to cause a permanent change in its response to certain stimuli. The most basic example is when a dog automatically and instantly sits when his owner says, "SIT". In a well-trained animal the reaction to a command or stimulus is completely instinctive and without thought. A good trainer or handler will apply consistency and simplicity to all of his training sessions. Don't try and have a conversation with your animal, it's not designed for English. Instead, consistently use simple devices such as one word commands in all of your sessions and you will meet with a much better result.

Training procedures are carried out using a very basic principle of animal conditioning -- the association of pleasure and pain. An owner's primary and underlying task in training the human dog is to associate massive amounts of pleasure to desired behaviors like obeying a command, and an adequate amount of pain to undesirable behaviors like peeing on the rug. The type and intensity of each aspect -- pleasure or pain -- is up to the trainer and should be tailored to suit the circumstances. In sessions where I have trained basic behaviors into a human animal, climbing on the bed has earned a few sound raps on the ass or balls with a rolled newspaper. Direct disobedience has resulted in a good beating coupled with longer term punishment, like attaching the chain between a pair of tit clamps to the collar and then holding the leash (connected at the other side of the collar) taught when it is being walked around.

In its simplest form, dog training requires a few basic tools. A collar, for purposes of expressing or enforcing control of the animal, and a leash for the same reasons. A punishment device, such as a crop or rolled up paper is also essential. A method of reward, from a scratch on the head to a biscuit (find out what treat Your dog really loves and keep some on hand), completes the package. Other tools and toys can definitely add something to the arrangement when used properly, but are not required.

Obedience Training

Roles

The roles of the players in a dog training scenario are fairly simple. The top is the owner, trainer, or MASTER. He is in charge because he is human and because the dog, even if temporarily, is in his possession and under his care. The bottom is an animal, a dog, and is not in charge because he has chosen to forfeit his humanity. There are a million and one ways to describe the relationship between a dog and its MASTER, but unless one or both of the two is playing wildly out of key the foundations are always similar.

A dog, before anything else, is loyal. In its mind it is a member of a pack, even if that pack is comprised of humans, and it will adhere to the hierarchy of that pack and serve it to the best of its ability and understanding. Its sense of obedience to higher ranking pack mates derives from its own submission and whatever conditioning it has had. It loves its pack mates and does its best to express this and to please them, particularly its owner. Even if its owner is in a bad mood, even if the animal is punished or roughly used, even if it is abused and tormented, the dog must remain loyal and obedient to its owner, either through instinct or conditioning. It is of primary importance to the owner that this behavior pattern is completely and thoroughly instilled in the animal, as it is a basic component of more advanced play. In the "ideal" scenario, this directive will be alive and well, fully functioning, even when dog play is not occurring. The two most important things a Trainer can do to cement this are building trust and conditioning through punishment and reward -- in that order.

Finally, the best piece of advice I can give to the new owner of a human dog is this: Think of him as a dog. This is the foundation to a good dog training scene, and your attitude, demeanor, and interaction will all flow from there. If you can do this, and if the bottom does as well, you're guaranteed to have a much richer level of dog play.

Training The Human Dog

The first and foremost item on the list for training a human animal is to make him aware that he is an animal. Human communication and interaction with others or the environment is not allowed. You will want to keep your dog on all fours and force him to otherwise give up his human dexterity. Any attempt at assuming the form or function of a human being should be immediately and thoroughly punished. Remind him of what he is by giving him a collar and never removing it. In addition, locking bondage mitts, preferably of the padded variety, are a great aid to reinforcement -- they essentially make your hands into paws and your fingers useless.

To begin, the trainer will need three things: his dog, a reward mechanism, and a punishment mechanism. The reward mechanism can be a scratch behind the ears coupled with praises, a dog biscuit, or whatever suits the trainers mood. The punishment mechanism can range from a simple rolled up newspaper to a remote controlled electric training collar strapped to the dogs cock & balls. For most purposes, and if the both parties allow, the preferred method is to use a more painful and direct approach coupled with a loud "NO" or other show of disapproval. This will also help the animal to associate pain with your disapproval, an invaluable aid in the later phases.

In basic obedience training, a command is issued and if the animal responds properly (quickly, quietly, & well) it is praised and rewarded. If it does not respond properly it is punished and bitched out. For example, if you command your dog to sit and he does so without hesitation, tell him what a good boy he is and scratch him behind the ears. If he doesn't, punish him immediately. Next, correct the behavior by making him sit using a choker or other means, then praise him for doing so. This is a very simple process of conditioning, but it works incredibly well on human dogs when applied on a regular basis with a consistent method and set of commands.

Commands

Here are some basic and useful commands worth teaching your dog.

Sit, Stay, and Come - The norm.

Heel - Positions the dog at the trainer's left side, or alternately between his legs facing forward when at rest.

Settle - Settle down.

Down - Get down or lay down, depending on the circumstances.

Show - Stand at full height on hands & toes, legs spread, all parts accessible and on display. Eyes up, looking forward.

In addition to the above, the human dog can be issued somewhat more complex commands once it has been properly conditioned to respond to its trainer. Being slightly more intelligent than other breeds, a well trained dog is capable of understanding things like "Go fetch my boots" or "Beg for it, bitch". Other commands can be added or the above modified to suit the handler's needs, but all commands that will be used regularly should be properly reinforced during regular training sessions for maximum effectiveness.

Housebreaking

The style of housebreaking chosen depends very much on preference, as some are not into this particular aspect of play. The most common, sanitary, and easiest method so far is to teach the pup to urinate from all fours either over the toilet or a bath tub. Taking a dump can be difficult with hands locked in padded fist mitts unless the handler can bear wiping the dog himself or leaving his ass like that afterward. Even if the animal is permitted his hands when defecating, he should still be on all fours throughout the process, butt appropriately dipping his rump so as to avoid a mess.

Paper training is the next most common thing. In this arrangement, the dog has access to a pile of newspapers to do its business. I recommend placing an unfolded trash bag or other similar plastic item beneath the papers in order to keep the floor clean. Wiping is obviously not an issue if you've gotten to this point.

The ultimate if you have both the space and the privacy is to walk your dog outside. In this way he can carry out his duties in a manner he is more naturally accustomed to. It can also be a good idea to make him use the same spot (a tree or bush) repeatedly in order to facilitate cleanup. In any and all of the above scenarios, severe and appropriate correction must be issued when the dog fails to follow proper toilet procedures. The most effective way to get the point across is usually to shove his nose in it and rap him on the ass a few times while you berate him for what he's done. Another simple solution is to use an enclosed chastity device in combination with a plug so that he has to beg each time he needs to go. This will both show the animal its place and allow you more direct control of its toilet functions.

Games, Play, & Tricks

Dogs love to play. Their owners, with any luck, do also. Spending quality time with a pup can mean wrestling with it, playing fetch the dildo, or just spending a few minutes rubbing its belly. Regardless of how you choose to play with your dog, you should play with it if you want it to be happy and well adjusted to its life.

Personally, I like to chase things. I love it when my MASTER throws something for me to fetch, or sends me after a cat or something. Soft flexible Frisbees and throwing toys can be fun, but a stick is just as much excitement and a lot cheaper - not to mention very appropriate. I love to gnaw on a good rubber bone or chew toy for hours at a time, and it's even better if someone throws it and sends me after it. Playing with other dogs is a lot of fun, both to do and to watch. It gets the animal inside out into the open where it can frolic and be free with a like minded creature.

Tricks are an interesting item, depending on the desires of the trainer they can be reinforced behaviors (like a command), or simple things a dog is expected to do for other's amusement. The classic is begging for a treat or scrap on its hind legs. Other fun tricks you might like to teach your dog are how to roll over, play dead, and "sit up" with its feet and ass on the ground, paws in the air at its chest, muzzle out and eyes up. I personally enjoy teaching a pup to lick or suck on command from this position as well.

Some tricks are repetitive - like bringing MASTER his slippers and paper when he gets home. These should be reinforced to some degree, but the animal's behavior when doing so can also be used as a good indicator of mood.

Dogs will typically "bow" when they want to play, looking bright eyed and straight at you while placing the shoulders and chin close to the ground and the rump in the air.

Finally, I have found with experience that the most fun tricks are done off the cuff, with or without an audience. Sending your boy after a beer in the bar can be a fun and even impressive thing to watch provided he can work out how to do it as a dog. Anything else you can think of getting him to do as a dog can be fun with the proper state of mind - the trick lies in the animal finding a way to do it like a dog, and the impression it makes or the sense of pride it evokes from its MASTER when executed well is the reward.

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Last changed on: 21 Apr 2010 13:22 +0100